With all the imagery and connotations the word lingerie evokes in people’s minds, it might come as something of a surprise to learn that it comes from the French word for washables. And perhaps even more strangely to English ears, in France it is equally applied to men’s and women’s underwear. So if you’re dining with some French people and one of the men announces that he is wearing lingerie, just carry on as though nothing has happened. But try and escape at the first opportunity.

The common English meaning of the word, as underwear for women, is actually quite non-specific. It can be anything from a simple slip or vest to a full basque with suspenders, or even something as everyday as a bra and knickers. However it cannot be denied that when the word lingerie is used rather than underwear, it does signify something on the sexier side, something designed to make a woman look and feel wonderful. Just look at the names of the well-known lingerie outlets if you’re in any doubt: La Senza, Agent Provocateur, Fig Leaves, Victoria’s Secret and so on. The air of sensuality, mystery and glamour is unmistakeable.

Before the advent of what we now know as lingerie, women’s underwear was bulky and uncomfortable, designed to shape the body, often in an exaggeratedly feminine form with a tiny waist and oversized bust and hips. Just hearing the phrase whalebone corset is enough to bring a tear to the eye, but bone was indeed used to create extremely rigid forms with zero wiggle room. It would not have been uncommon for a second person to be required to lace up the back as it would have been impossible to put on without opening the corset out, and the required tightness could not have been achieved without a little leverage round the back.

This style clearly had to stop. As well as the impracticalities, it could be damaging to women’s bone structure and internal organs, which is never a good selling point in an outfit. So around the 1920s and 1930s, styles inevitably started to change. The outer garments women were wearing would not have required such restrictive corsetry anyway, as the fashions were a lot more loose and free-flowing. But the need to be comfortable produced lingerie of silk, satin and soft cotton, and structural stiffeners were kept to a minimum.

Today, the corset is not completely gone, and the trend for burlesque acts shows that there is still a fascination in such items. But there’s a big difference between such dress on stage and having to wear it from dawn till dusk. The story of modern lingerie still has some of the traditional elements, however. Support and body forming remain important purposes, most notably in bras and girdles, but nowadays the need for comfort and health are unquestioned. Advances in man-made fabrics that have gentle elastic properties have helped towards comfort, and awareness of the importance of being professionally measured for a comfortable fit continues to improve in these days of mass-production.

Author Bio: This information was provided by Robin Kittler for Rokit to highlight the roots of vintage lingerie and other vintage clothing styles for men and women.

Category: Womens Interest
Keywords: vintage clothing, retro