Because the starting system of an automobile product is engineered to operate from a battery that is fully charged, a standard battery hydrometer is a most indispensable tool for checking the performance of a conventional battery.

Standard run of the mill “conventional batteries “are those which have vent caps on top. Some models of lead acid automotive batteries are sealed at the top of the plastic case. With these models you will unable to simply check and test the battery by means of a battery hydrometer testing device. Lastly lead acid car batteries are not to be confused with the battery and battery systems that are involved with and integral with the new high tech hybrid motor cars and vehicles.

How do battery hydrometers work? The basis is that the hydrometer device compares the density (technically and chemically speaking this is the specific gravity or weight) of the battery fluid electrolyte, to that of ordinary distilled water. The acid in your automotive battery is heavier than plain water. Therefore as a matter of standard course, the more fully charged your battery, the heavier the fluid. This is of course the tip off to the degree of charge of your battery. The “heavier” the fluid – then the higher the degree of charge and the electrical storage capacity of your unit. It must be stressed that lead acid auto batteries employ a chemical system and work by basis of chemical principles. Heat and temperature increases chemical activity and natural processes of chemistry. Thus a battery which in the summertime may be perfectly acceptable and adequate for starting a vehicle’s engine, running electrical components in a car truck or bus may be perfectly inadequate come the cold wintertime conditions of an Edmonton Alberta below zero temperatures of winter time.

When should your auto’s battery be tested? Overall it is held by both auto mechanics and experienced dealership technical service writers that such a complete and full hydrometer testing should be done seasonally to best avoid undue and unnecessary strain or your S.U.V., truck or car electrical system as well as to detect battery failure and failures ahead of time and disaster. Modern cars contain a myriad of ultra sophisticated electronic devices and sensors, which are much more sensitive to inadequate or inconsistent electric power, amperages and voltages than the much simpler systems of years gone by. There are no longer simple timing and electrical points in vehicles currently. It’s no longer a case of only having simple electronics and electrical utilities and appliances on vehicles such as a radio, lights and headlamps and a cigarette or cigar lighter. Now we expect as a matter of standard course in most of our vehicles all kinds of sophisticated conveniences, that all run on electrical and battery power. Include air conditioning, stereo mp3 radios and GPS navigation systems to the mix in 2010.

Lastly auto service professional advise that before performing a hydrometer test on a conventional lead acid vented battery or visually checking a “maintenance free’ battery type make the simple inspection that the plastic case itself is in good stead and condition. Inspect the case for cracks as well as other damage. Loose hold down frames, freezing or flying stones are the most likely causes of battery case cracks and cracking. A “bulging” battery case can cause motor starting failures as well. This swelling or bulging effect can be caused in many cases either by overcharging or freezing in cold northern states or Canadian wintertime weather conditions.

Only when you have judged that the exterior case of your battery in is good condition and overall shape, should you or your auto service professional test your battery fully and comprehensively with a hydrometer.

Author Bio: Harold Stoffman Edmonton