All said and done at the end of the toilet flush, the principle behind running water flush toilets has not really changed much at all whatsoever , since they were first patented in England in 1775.

A lever sets off a chain reaction that lets in new water which in turn flushes out the old liquid and refuse. And while modern units – even with water saving and all the EPA official US government environmental protection standards are definitely smaller , hold less reservoir storage tank capacity and undoubtedly ( or so the green and environmental experts tell and lecture us) that they are more efficient, no doubt they do occasionally from time to time require minor repairs and adjustments.

For example if your toilet continues to run after the tank has filled with new water, try a few simple adjustments before calling the heating and plumbing tradesperson or your local handyman / handywoman.

Many people have never seen the inside of a toilet tank itself; most likely they would be rather surprised at how basic and essentially simplistic the system is in all actuality and practicality. Like the “hand bone connected to the wrist bones concept, the handle on the outside of the tank connects to a lever or lift arm inside the tank which, in turn, connects to a plunger-type object called a “tank ball”. When in position the tank ball seals an opening in the bottom of the tank. Pressing the handle raises the tank ball from its seat, letting water rush from the tank into the toilet bowl before.

As the water level in the tank drops, the float attached to a rod lowers. Opening up the water intake valve and thus allowing fresh water to enter and fill up the tank storage reservoir. Releasing the handle lets the tank ball drop back into its seat closing the tank and allowing it to fill, one more time.

However, if the tank ball is worn form continual and continued standard use, water will bypass it and leak through into the toilet bowl itself. In essence your toilet will be said to “continue running”, though in all actuality it is just seeping and drizzling through.

Luckily this is a common problem easily rectified. The repairs can be done by most people with some simple mechanical ability and a wish to get the job done. First empty the tank itself. Turn off the water intake faucet which is usually on the water incoming pipe attached to the toilet water storage reservoir. In some cases where the installation was done slip shod you may find, that against building codes there is no turn-off valve installed. In these situations you can do the fix by turning off the water to the home at the main water shut off valve inside your house usually in the basement. The main shut off valve will usually be in your basement somewhere before the water meter in the main water pipe leading into your house or condo.

It will look like a standard outdoor faucet.

Once the water is “turned off” in your abode empty the water – allowing it to flow out or if need be use a small cup to scoop it out fully.

Unscrew the ball itself and replace it. Check the tank ball seat as well, since corrosion over time is a second major cause of leaks. If the seat itself is corroded, lift the tank ball, and buff the seat with ordinary steel wool – obtained easily from your local hardware store or big box plumbing and heating supply outlet. Lastly adjust the tank ball rod so that when the ball drops it forms a good and tight seal over the seat.

As the water in the tank reaches the fill level, the float rod rises and closes off the intake valve. Meanwhile, the emptied toilet bowl is partially refilled with fresh water. This of course assumes that you have turned on the water to the toilet or to your home again.

Lastly if the toilet “runs” constantly ( that is water continues to fill the tank and bowl non-stop) the problem could be one of several things to consider; a damaged tank bal or corroded tank ball seat as previously mentioned, float rod maladjustment, a leaky float , a faulty intake valve . Or a corroded tank ball assembly. Each of these conditions is easy to fix. Replacement parts are sold individually at your local hardware or plumbing and heating supply stores.

Author Bio: Toni I. Williams One Hour Furnasman\’s Winnipeg Plumbing Heating Air Conditioning Summertime Wpg Manitoba Air Conditioning Deals Installation 1 hours Fort Garry Lindewoods East St. Paul Transcona St. Vital Charleswood Furnasman Winnipeg Power Vac Air-Conditioning Duct Cleaning