We are probably living through the first phase in modern history when hats as formalwear (which can mean almost any job or social occasion) are not considered normal. While beanies, woolly hats and baseball caps have become relatively normal (but by no means universal) in the UK since the 1990s, skip a generation backwards and the idea of leaving the house without a hat would have seemed quite bizarre.

Until recently hats were pretty reliable pointers to social class in the UK. The term “cloth cap” is still used to signify the lower working class or manual labourer, even though the fashion more or less died out in the 70s, and is now worn only by the older generation and young hipsters. The bowler hat, on the other hand, was definitely a piece of headwear that signified upper middle class status. When Monty Python wanted to ridicule pompous, officious, jobsworth Britishness, they would usually opt for a bowler hat. It was particularly associated with banking and the City of London. As late as the late 70s the bowler hat was used as the graphic for newsreaders doing the business section, and the Bradford & Bingley building society (or what is left of it) still uses the bowler hat as its logo. In America, the bowler hat was a little humbler; Charlie Chaplin and wannabe gentlemen Laurel & Hardy are typical characterisations.

And then there are the trilby and the fedora, which, although not worn so much these days, were other staples of the common man which could have glamorous undertones, helped enormously by the black and white movies of the Bogart era. With a much smaller brim, the pork pie hat was popular in the late 70s and 80s as the ska revival took hold.

So how did these stylish items fall out of favour and become replaced by slouchy, informal wear or nothing at all? It’s difficult to say it was definitely the cause, but the hat’s fall from popularity does coincide with the hippy era, when hair started to be worn long and clothes in general became looser fitting and less tailored. The period gave way to punk and the flouncy 80s; when you’ve spent that much on a hair style you don’t want to hide it under a hat. And by the time men started getting the desire to wear hats again, the old styles were out of production or associated with their dads’ generation – a certain no-no in fashion. So the American sporty look swept the world.

It’s a shame that these magnificent styles of hat have largely disappeared, because the looks can still be pulled off, and there’s a great deal of kudos to be gained from rocking a trilby or one of its cousins. The vintage clothing stores are well stocked and are reporting brisk sales, which is usually an interesting sign that something is about to happen in the mainstream. It also means that if you really want a genuine vintage model and not a mass-produced high-street interpretation, that is the first place you should look. Here’s looking for you, fedora.

There\’s a comforting feel about classic men\’s hats and James explains why they are now creating a buzz in vintage clothing around the country.

There\’s a comforting feel about classic and vintage men\’s hats and James explains why they are now creating a buzz in vintage clothing stores like http://www.rokit.co.uk around the country.

Author Bio: There\’s a comforting feel about classic men\’s hats and James explains why they are now creating a buzz in vintage clothing around the country.

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