One of the all-time biggest frustrations is to find that the great pictures you took underwater look like they were taken while it was snowing. All those semi-translucent, white circles of various sizes are known as backscatter.

Great you say, but what are they doing in my photos – the water was clear? Actually water is rarely all that clear, we just can’t see the smaller particles suspended in it. These may be plankton or sand or any number of things that the camera can see really well, especially when lit up by the internal flash of your underwater camera.

Now you’ve already figured out that a flash is definitely required to restore color absorbed by the water, especially the reds and yellows, and perhaps also that you need to be close to the subject for the same reason – that light doesn’t travel too far down into the ocean. So if the flash is required, but caused the problem, what’s the solution?

First off, it was really the angle of the flash to the lens that was problematic. Backscatter is caused by the flash reflecting off the particles then back into the camera lens, and gets worse the closer the cameras internal flash is to the lens. It’s a real problem on the newer sub-compacts because the flash is often right next to the lens.

The solution is to put some distance between the flash and the lens by utilizing an external flash. Doing so won’t stop the reflection from happening, but will make it far more likely that the reflected light goes somewhere other than your camera lens.

A good starting approach is to set up your external flash or strobe to where it will illuminate your subject from either the top or side. If you’ve got dual strobes, you can lessen shadows by sending light from two directions. What you’re after is to light up what you’re trying to photograph and not the water between the camera and subject.

As with most things some experimentation will be useful. You may want to try angling the strobes slightly outward where the light isn’t directly on the subject. Also, because the suspended particles are probably multi-faceted, not just flat, an errant reflection could still cause a little backscatter. To deal with this a diffuser will help soften the light and eliminate the reflection of direct light.

Besides getting an external flash, there are several other things you can do to lessen the chances that backscatter will be a problem. One is to get as close as possible to your subject. The less water between the camera and subject, the fewer particles. Also, backscatter is easier to see on solid backgrounds like open water, so try to shoot toward a busy background like a reef where backscatter won’t be so obvious.

Perfect your diving skills so that you’re relaxed in the water and the added distraction of fussing with underwater camera equipment and taking pictures doesn’t cause a perilous situation like running short of air.

Of utmost importance is your ability to maintain proper buoyancy, not just for getting the shot, but to keep from trashing the reef in the process. Proper finning techniques and approaching subjects from down-current will also make a big difference in not stirring up sand or silt.

Author Bio: Find more details, or shop for strobes, lenses, or an underwater camera here, or check out the reviews and more photo tips on our website at http://www.underwatercamerasplus.com

Category: Computers and Technology
Keywords: underwater camera,backscatter,waterproof camera,underwater photography