Most seasoned weavers and knitters are knowledgeable about the process and purpose of fulling and finishing a newly fashioned hand woven fabric. However, if you are new to the world of creating your own fabrics with natural fibers, you must be aware that once you’ve created the garment, it is still not usable or wearable. It must first be put through a process called ‘fulling’ or ‘waulking’.

Fulling adds weight and density to a fabric to allow for dimension and stability. It is a process which opens the fibers and transforms the hand woven threads into your desired fabric. Depending on the type of fibers you use, this process is not extremely difficult, but it is finicky so follow these guidelines if you are fulling for the first time. It is important to note, before fulling any woven fibers all weave skips and broken threads must be fixed. Not doing this will obviously affect the structure and integrity of the fabric, leaving you to ask yourself why you started the project in the first place.

Fulling involves five very important variables, heated water, agitation, soap, fiber type and sett. Each variable can be tweaked to work for your specific fabric. The hotter the water, the quicker the fabric will full. The more agitation and soap the quicker the fulling process. It is imperative to keep watch over your fabric while it is in the process of fulling, seconds count. Understanding your fabric’s fibers as well as its sett, an open sett fabric will full quicker than a closer sett.

Natural fabric fulling

Natural fibers such as wools and cottons have natural oils and lanolins in the fiber. To full these natural fibers a combination of heat and agitation is needed. This process opens up each individual fiber and interlocks them together. When these individual threads no longer move alone but fuse together, you have a fabric.

Natural fabric finishes

The basic finishing process for fabrics and knits allows the fabric to gain many valuable characteristics. Durability, water repellence and resistance to shrinking, wrinkling, mildew, and fire being the most common characteristics. Natural fabrics require a resin finish treatment in order to acquire the same easy care properties as synthetics.

Finishes may also refer to the broader concept, the dye color, bleaching, printing and the piping and hem.

Types of finishes

The type of finish applied to fabrics will directly affect the look and feel of fabrics. There are many different finishes for natural fabrics, the following are the most popular finishes found.

Sanforizing or Preshrinking- This is achieved by feeding the fabric between a roller and a rubber blanket. The rubber compresses the weft fibers which leads to shrinkage.

Peach finish- A peach finish creates a velvety surface to the fabric. This is created by running the fabric between abrasive rollers which lift and soften the fabric to create the velvety feel.

Calendering- This process creates a smooth, shiny surface to the fabric. It is created by running the fabric through very hot, quick spinning steel cylinders.

With this information you have the basics to understanding the process of fulling and finishing your newly created fabric. With this basic knowledge you will be able to understand your fiber or fabric instructor’s vocabulary, as well as prepare you for any question you may be asked. Continue learning and continue growing.

Visit http://www.janestaffordtextiles.com for spinning wheels and looms, wide selections of yarns and weaving patterns to choose from.

Visit http://www.janestaffordtextiles.com for spinning wheels and looms, wide selections of yarns and weaving patterns to choose from.

Author Bio: Visit http://www.janestaffordtextiles.com for spinning wheels and looms, wide selections of yarns and weaving patterns to choose from.

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